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Organic Rose Gardening Secrets Revealed!, Issue #001 -- teaser here
April 30, 2012
FREE Rose gardening Newsletter………
Rose Gardening Secrets Revealed!
April 18, 2012
Hello, welcome to the rose gardening newsletter. You will find some monthly to-do suggestions for your rose garden, along with my tips and advice on organic ideas that will help you grow bigger and better roses. Issue #0001
Table of Contents1. Your Spring (To-do) List for your Rose garden
2. How to choose and buy Roses
3. Planting Rose Bushes
(Please read) If you find these newsletters helpful, please spread the word by telling a friend! If a friend forwarded this to you, and you enjoy it, please go to allaboutrosegardening and subscribe to receive them yourself. Thank You! Enjoy…….
What to do in the garden in SpringEarly spring is the time to begin pruning and fertilizing your rose bushes. By now, as the weather has started getting warmer, you have been slowly removing any winter protection you had covering your rose bushes.
You are most likely seeing the buds beginning to swell, and even signs of emerging leaves.
Sharpen up your pruners! Dull pruners will damage the canes.
You should cut out any dead canes. Cut back to green growth any canes that have had winter damage. You can tell if it is winter damage from the color of the canes. Cut off the dark (black colored) part of the cane, back to a point of healthy green, just above an outward facing bud. Cut at a 45 degree angle.
learn more about pruning roses
In my area (zone 5), the first rose feeding is signaled by the blooming of the beautiful Forsythia-Bush. In other areas, you should begin feeding early, when the soil begins to warm, (nights are still cool, but not freezing). Don’t forget to water, before, and after applying any fertilizer.
In my garden, I use only organic methods and products to fertilize my roses. My Spring ritual includes pruning, and fertilizing at the same time. Each bush gets whatever it needs for pruning, then I pull back the mulch, apply the fertilizer, replace the mulch, and move on to the next bush. That way, if I don’t finish the project in one day, I won’t forget which bushes received the fertilizer.
I like to give my rose bushes a handful of Alfalfa meal, and a shovelful of compost, along with a cup of my favorite fertilizer... Roses Alive!™ 100% All-Natural Fertilizer then a sprinkle of Epsom Salts, and my roses get a nice drink of water, then………….I let Mother nature do her magic!
How to Choose and Buy Roses
Early Spring is the perfect time to plant new roses! If you order them on-line, or through a nursery, they will be shipped to you at the proper planting time for your area.
It is important to choose roses that will be hardy and productive in your climate zone.
Buying roses on impulse that you haven’t researched, could prove to be a waste of money. I have an ever-growing, long list of some of the most popular roses with information,
hardiness zone, and a picture of the rose here:
Bare-root roses- should be fresh and healthy looking. You should see several thick and fibrous roots. The rootstock or stem should at least be as thick as your thumb. It should have two or three stout branches.
Container roses- should have healthy, well spread branches, and be actively growing. You should see new growth from the stems. (Don’t be tempted to buy a dry, sickly plant, thinking you can “nurse” it back to health)!
Own-root roses- should be healthy, actively growing (with leaves), and planted in a small pot
Planting Rose BushesRoses prefer a soil rich in organic matter. Clay soil works for them, because it holds water well. The best ph is 6 to 6.5, but they can adapt to acid or alkaline conditions that are not to extreme.(I recommend a higher ph) actually 7.5!
Six hours of sun are required, although you will find some varieties that are more tolerant to shade.
Planting Bare-root roses- If you buy roses that are bare-root, it is best if you hydrate the bush by soaking it in a pail of tepid water, (8-12 hours).
1. Leave the rose in the pail of water, until the planting hole is dug. Dig a BIG hole! The roots need plenty of room to spread out. Cramming the plant into a hole only large enough to fit it into, will result in an unhappy rose (and gardener)! If the roots all point in one direction, dig the hole to accommodate them. You don’t want to force the roots to go in a different direction.
2. Add some organic
material to the hole, sand, and any other amendments, and a sprinkle of super phosphate. You’ll have to “measure” the rose in the planting hole to see just how deep to plant it.
In Southern U.S., (and warm climates) the bud, or graft union should be planted at ground level.
The Bud Union is: Where the branches meet the roots . 3. With the rose in the hole, refill with soil, making sure there are no air pockets. Gently firm down the soil with your foot, leaving a slight depression in the center (for water to collect).
4. Water well.
5. Add mulch.
6. Water again.
Container, or pot-grown roses can be planted at any time, but spring or summer planting should insure the plant has plenty of growing time before winter.
1. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the pot, plus a bit extra, (so you can add some compost or amendments to the hole)
2. Remove the rose from the pot, and place it in the hole. Gently rub the sides of the root ball, to loosen it a bit, and fill up the sides of the hole with soil, then press the rose firmly (but gently) in the ground.
3. Water well.
4. Add mulch.
5. Water again.
Written by;Carol owner/editor, allaboutrosegardening.com http://www.allaboutrosegardening.com Copyright 2012 (Allaboutrosegardening) Zone 5 ( USA)
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